Just a few figures to round up what More Than Mountains have been getting up to in the last couple of months!
1 x new pair of crampons purchased.
2 x visits to the Ice Factor in Kinlochleven.
3 x ascents of the ZigZags on Gearr Aonach in Glen Coe.
4 x days of teaching winter skills courses in the Cairngorms.
5 x pitches of snow and ice climbing on North Buttress on Buchaille Etive Mor.
6 x days teaching winter mountaineering courses on Ben Nevis.
7 x pairs of gloves used most days.
Following on from the last blog about winter mountaineering clothing, this short article will outline some of the gear I take with me.
A good helmet is vital in winter and I will often end up wearing one for most of the day, particularly if it is windy. It is worth finding one that you can comfortably wear a hat or balaclava underneath and is compatible with the hood of your outer shell jacket.
You can get away with a simpler harness in winter as all the extra clothing negates the need for padding on the waist belt. A ‘nappy’ style harness can easily be put on standing up whilst wearing crampons or skis which makes for a good choice.
An all round pair of twelve point crampons will do for almost all eventualities without getting too specialist. It is worth taking the time to make sure they fit your boots well. It is also vitally important that they are fitted with anti-balling plates to prevent snow buliding up undnerneath your boots as you walk.
Ice axes come in all shapes and sizes. It is worth trying some out before you buy as the grip and swing of an axe comes down to personal preference. In general, tools should be about 50cm in length as this is practical for most uses.
Dry-treated ropes are an essential in winter and most people prefer to use a double rope system to protect the climb and allow for longer abseils.
A standard rack of climbing equipment comprising nuts, hexes and cams is usually enough backed up with a few ice screws and maybe pitons depending on the route. Lots of slings and some spare abseil ‘tat’ always come in handy.
In my rucksack I will always carry a first aid kit, group shelter, head torch and spare map!
I’ve been using and abusing kit ice climbing and winter mountaineering for a good few years now in Scotland on courses and for play. In the build up to the new season I have been compiling a list of what works really well for me.
Rucksack – The POD Thin Ice at 45 litres is big enough to take all my winter climbing kit for a day and yet still weighs under 1kg! I prefer a simple sack with a floating lid and compact waist belt and the Thin Ice fits the bill perfectly. On ‘go faster’ days I have been using the Osprey Mutant 28 which is a great day sack, again with all the right features.
Boots – Since first trying on the Scarpa Phantoms they have proved to be the perfect boot for ice climbing in Scotland throughout the winter months. They are one of the most comfortable boots I have ever worn and keep my feet warm and dry in all conditions. The La Sportiva Nepal are also a great mountaineering boot for when the going kets tough.
Socks – I wear merino socks every day – enough said!
Base layers – I usually wear merino baselayers and if it’s cold I will layer a technical hoody over the top. The new Mountain Equipment Eclipse hoody looks like it is going to be an awesome bit of kit that will be on my Christmas list this year.
Mid layer – The Patagonia R2 jacket is one of my favourite mid layer pieces. Another option would be a thin synthetic layer or something like the Rab Vapour-rise top.
Shell layer – Depending on the conditions I choose between a softshell, ‘event’ hardshell or more often than not a Paramo jacket which covers all eventualities.
Legs – Paramo Aspira Salopettes have proved themselves to be one of the best winter legwear options in all conditions. If it’s cold I will add longjohns underneath them.
Booster layer – A warm synthetic jacket such as the Mountain Equipment Fitzroy is great to throw on over the top of your other layers for lunch breaks or on cold belays during a climb. I would avoid down as it can soon wet-out.
Gloves – Lots are required to get you through a typical Scottish winter mountaineering day. I start with a thin fleece glove for the walk in. Windstopper works really well as a fabric for gloves. If I am ice climbing I will change to something thicker with a leather palm for dexterity and grip. The Black Diamond Punisher has been a great glove over the last few seasons. I always have a pair of warm mittens in my rucksack as a back up.
That’s about it for clothing. In the next blog I will list more of the technical climbing kit I use throughout the winter.
More than mountains are busy planning winter courses for 2012. Look out for courses in winter skills, winter mountaineering and winter snow and ice climbing in Scotland and the Lake District coming soon. To help you get the most out of your winter mountaineering the following advice should help you look after your feet in the snow.
Choosing the right boots and crampons for winter mountaineering.
It is all too easy to be tempted into buying the latest shiny climbing gear on a rainy day but it is important to make sure you are getting the right tools for the job. To help winter mountaineers make the correct choice about their boot and crampon combinations mountain guide Brian Hall designed a system of different categories that makes it clear to see which boots will work with which crampons.
B1-boot-with-C1-crampon
A B1 boot is a four season walking boot that is very durable and has a semi-stiffened sole to cope with walking over rough ground. It is suitable for year round use in the mountains. Attached to the boot in the photo is a ten-point C1 crampon. It is a flexible crampon that can be fitted to most boots.
B2-boot-with-C2-crampon
A B2 boot is almost fully stiffened and has been designed to easily cope with walking, scrambling and climbing. They can be used year round but may feel a little warm in summer. A twelve point C2 crampon offers more security on steeper snow and ice slopes and often comes with a heel clip to make fitting them to the boot a little quicker.
B3-boot-with-C3-crampon
A B3 boot has a fully stiffened sole and has been designed for steep, technical climbing. They used to exclusively be double boots with a plastic outer but modern technology has allowed lighter models using different materials to come onto the market. A fourteen point C3 crampon with vertical front points is designed for climbing vertical or even overhanging ice!
It is possible to go for a walk in a B3/C3 combination but you may find it uncomfortable. In the same way, starting up a grade V ice fall in bendy B1 boots may feel slightly unnerving.
Make sure your crampons are fitted with anti-balling plates to prevent a build up of snow underneath your boots. A quick tap with your ice axe will knock off any snow that does start to stick.
It is worth carrying a small repair kit with your crampons on the hill. This may consist of a small multi tool with pliers and a screwdriver and a spare strap and nuts and bolts. I find a few cable ties can be incredibly useful for holding everything in place in an emergency.
Have your crampons ready to put on before you need them. It is much easy to fit them somewhere relatively flat rather than trying to balance on one leg in the middle of a steep slope. Adopt the ‘John Wayne’ position when walking with crampons on, remember you have just strapped 24 more ways to hurt yourself to the bottom of your feet!
With this week’s weather forecast looking distinctly wintry with snow showers forecast over the fells here in the Lake District I have been wearing warmer layers of clothing more often than not. After many years of searching for the perfect shell jacket I have begun to realise that perhaps what you wear underneath is more important in keeping you comfortable than the outer layers. With that in mind over the next few posts I will be reprising what I wear for winter mountaineering.
Starting with;
Base Layers
The first piece of clothing that goes on in the morning is a comfortable wicking base layer. My favourite two materials for this layer are Patagonia Capilene 2 and merino wool. I generally choose the capilene in warmer weather or for faster paced activities such as fell running or cycling as the material’s ability to wick away moisture is important. The merino goes on when the temperature drops or when I am looking for all day comfort. Another bonus of the merino is it doesn’t smell! I wore one of my favourite tops for seven days straight on a trip last year to the Bugaboos in Canada and no one in the hut complained!!
When choosing a base layer look for a long sleeved top with a zip neck that is easy to vent. Lighter colours will reflect the sun and help keep you cool in hotter climates.
Top tip
When winter climbing I often walk in wearing a capilene t-shirt and then change into a merino base layer at the start of the route once the t-shirt is saturated. The clean dry top helps keep me much warmer and comfortable on long, chilly belays.
climbers in their base layers on the approach to a climb!
Will and Dane have written a lot on their blogs recently about how to improve your ice climbing. I have been making the most of the ice bulges that have survived the wind and the rain here in the Lake District to work on my skills and technique by climbing the routes a number of times with the safety of a top rope. Good places I’ve visited include Brown Cove Crags on Helvellyn, Red Screes above Kirkstone Pass and Angle Tarn ice falls.
To give you a better idea I have uploaded a video to youtube of the final day I had training the staff at Patterdale Hall with Stuart Carter ice climbing before the thaw!