A to Z of Rock Climbing Terms

Abseiling - This is the name given to a controlled descent of a fixed rope using a device such as a figure of eight or a belay plate. It is also known as rappelling.

Belaying - This is the technique for taking in or paying out the rope attached to the climber. It is vital that a hand is always kept on the free end of the rope to hold a fall.

Clove Hitch - This is a knot that is useful for attaching yourself to a fixed anchor as it is easily adjustable.

Dyno - A climbing move where you have to leap from one hold to the next as it is too far to reach. It was made famous by Sylvester Stallone in Cliffhanger and the current world record is 2.825 metres.

Extreme - The British grading system is open ended. For a long time the highest grade was 'extremely severe'. This has now been broken down from 1 - 11 (E1, E2, E3 etc.) and could go further.

Friends - You need these to go climbing! Also another name given to spring loaded camming devices. They are fast to place in parallel cracks.

Gri Gri - A self braking belay device made by Petzl. It must be used with caution as it is not a hands free device.

Hexentrics - Some of the original pieces of climbing protection were machined nuts. 'Hexes' are a variation on this as their refined shape allows them to cam in a crack.

Italian Hitch - A very useful knot to know as it can be used to belay or descend if you drop your belay plate. Not to be confused with the clove hitch.

Jamming - A climbing technique where part of your body, usually your fingers, hands or feet are wedged into a crack. It is particularly useful on gritstone.

Karabiners (aka Krabs) - These metal clips are essential for attachment to the rope, slings, belay or for carrying other equipment. They can have a snap-gate or a screw-gate which provides a more secure connection.

Lark's Foot - This is a useful 'knot' for attaching a sling to the abseil loop on your harness. Be careful when tying a clove hitch that you don't miss tie a lark's foot instead as this is not as strong.

Mantelshelf - A classic climbing technique that is a bit like getting out on the side of a swimming pool. It is often required to top out on gritstone routes and can be very strenuous!

Nuts - Passive climbing protection that form the backbone of a traditional rack of gear. They can also known as rocks, chocks, stoppers and wallnuts.

OK - Clear communication is very important in climbing. The recognised calls of 'safe', 'that's me' and 'climb when ready' are answered by 'OK' to show you have heard and understood.

Prussik - The original knot was invented by Dr. Prussik for repairing violin strings. Many climbers now carry a short length of cord for tying a prussik knot which can be used for ascending, backing up an abseil or hoisting.

Quickdraw - This consists of two krabs joined by a short sling. It is used to provide extension between a piece of protection and the rope to reduce drag.

Rope - There are many different kinds of rope. A climbing rope must be dynamic to absorb the force of a fall. Static ropes can be used for abseiling or rigging to reduce stretch. A full weight single rope can be used on its own but half weight or twin ropes must be paired up with another similar rope.

Single-Pitch - A cliff that can be climbed from bottom to top in a single rope length is described as 'single-pitch'. When ascending a higher cliff it is necessary to stop on ledges to bring up your partner before carrying on, therefore making the climb multi-pitch.

Top-Rope - On short, or single pitch cliffs, a belay can be easily built at the top and than a rope lowered down so that the climber can ascend safely. If the belay is extended and the rope taken down to the base of the cliff so the belayer can stand on the ground this is known as bottom roping. In extreme circumstances a top rope can be lowered to a stuck leader to initiate a rescue.

Undercut - This is a type of hand hold often found under an overhang that requires a climber to pull outwards and upwards to use it.

Very Difficult - One of the easiest climbing grades despite the name! It is often shortened to 'V. Diff'.

Warming Up - This is always important before strenuous exercise. The walk in to the cliff is often enough to raise the heart beat but a few light stretches to increase mobility may be useful before attempting steeper routes.

XS - Since the introduction of 'E' grades this grade (Extremely Severe) is seldom used anymore although it may be still be found in some guidebooks, particularly on sea cliffs.

Y-Hang - A useful set up using a sling for accompanied abseils.

Z-Hoist - Also known as a '3:1', this is an unassisted hoist for rescuing a stuck climber often from the depths of a crevasse.